Day 1

Pictish Sites and Highland Clearances in Sutherland

Your trip begins in the Heart of Sutherland, where you’ll check into your explorers’ base for the next couple of nights at Ceol Mor Highland Lodges. Overlook the serene Kyle of Sutherland, and keep a watching eye for any rustling wildlife, Pine Martens, red squirrels and singing birds are no strangers to this special place. It also makes for a perfect central base for exploring key history and heritage sites, as well as natural hidden gems around Sutherland, in the North Highlands. Your hosts Alan and Yvonne will be sure to tell you where all the best travel spots are.

Throw yourself into a place where time stands still and discover the stories of local people of the past. Not far away from Ceol Mor, visit Achness Falls on the River Cassley. Don’t just marvel as the river tumbles over the boulders; try and imagine the lives of the people who lived here 9000 years ago. They built the Pictish Broch just downstream. What were their lives like? A little research, with a peek at the Caithness Broch Project website, may answer your questions.

Not far from here, the shameful Highland Clearances and their legacy can’t be ignored; spot the remains of deserted croft houses which are scattered along peaceful inland glens as you make your way for Ardgay. Visit Croick Church to see the messages inscribed into the windows by some of the 80 families forced to seek sanctuary in the church yard in 1845. We don’t know their fate; we just know their traditional way of life was less profitable to landlords than their land being grazed by sheep.

Day 2

Geological Wonders on the North West Highlands Geopark Rock Route

Today you’ll visit chapters before the Clearances and travel back to the start of time with the North West Highlands Geopark, where you can learn about the geological aspects to our ancient heritage and history. Follow the Rock Route and stop at 14 discovery points, from Achiltibuie in the south, to Durness in the north. The story of the earth’s evolution can be seen through different rock strata and explained by audio files and interpretation boards. The Moine Thrust is beautifully exposed at Knockan Crag; the rocks here changed our understanding of some fundamental aspects of geology. And luckily, when it comes to lunch time you can unearth The Rock Stop which is the visitor centre, exhibition and coffee shop for the North West Highlands Geopark. It’s at Unapool, just north of Kylesku, and serves tea, coffee, cakes and, we hope, rock buns!

Day 3

Timespan Museum and Historic Halkirk

After a couple of days learning about Sutherland’s past, make your way North to discover ancient stories of Caithness, but there are some important stops on the way.

As well as in Central Sutherland, there are also sobering reminders on the East Coast to remind us of the tragedy of the Highland Clearances. When passing through the village of Golspie, if you fancy a hike to take in the view of the empty glens from the summit of Ben Bhraggie, where a statue remains of the 1st Duke of Sutherland. He was one of the key figures in this brutal chapter of the North Highlands’ history which shook our local heritage. Keep a keen eye on your walk, you might even spot some elusive red deer grazing on the hillside.

Next, stop in at Timespan in Helmsdale, an invaluable resource for discovering more about Sutherland’s rich history, including our herring past, and the shameful burning of Janet Horn, the last witch in Britain in Dornoch in 1727. Helmsdale also tells the story of the Clearances which is poignantly captured by the Emigrants Memorial of fleeing crofters gazing back at their homeland.

Your next stop is Halkirk, where you’ll check into the Ulbster Arms Hotel, you’ll be guaranteed a warm Highland welcome. Even the walls of this hotel are steeped in history, built nearly 150 years ago from Caithness Stone. This special place was once home to the Sinclair Family, iconic in Caithness History, and its central base offers the perfect home from home to explore the hidden gems of the North. A haven for foodies too, we’d love to tell you what’s on the menu, but it changes with the seasons and depending on what the boats have brought in that day. Guests are encouraged to make requests for what they’d like to eat, and if the chefs can source it, they’ll cook it for you. Think local, think flavour, and you’re halfway there. Bliss.

While you’re in Halkirk, you can’t miss out on the Halkirk Heritage & Vintage Motor Centre. This isn’t just for petrol heads but will spark an interest in anyone with an interest in social history. From motors to heritage, you’re guaranteed to learn something new (or old!) on your visit.

Day 4

Fishing Heritage at Whaligoe Steps and Ancient Wick

Discover Whaligoe Steps, an iconic spot which reflects the stories of the history of herring fishing, and how it inspired so much of our North Highlands’ Heritage. They might only take 10 minutes to walk down, but these ancient steps will transport you to past times. Cut into a steep cliff face, the 330 steps lead down to a tiny harbour once used by fisherwomen hauling baskets of herring up and down. The stunning views at the bottom make the short but steep trek worth it.

Time to visit Pultneytown, to uncover the story of Wick. Your first stop is the Wick Heritage Museum, where you can see how residents of the area lived their daily lives in years gone by. Detailed exhibits demonstrate fully furnished household rooms with items that will spark interest of all ages from traditional box beds to the authentic Caithness chairs.

Then take a stroll down the coastline to take in the sea air and discover the medieval remains of the Castle of Old Wick, a four-storey tower standing on the cliffside, which is thought to originate from the 14th century. Look out to sea, you might spot some seabirds or even a glimpse of the orcas.

After the return journey, you might have built up an appetite. Nip into Mackays Hotel on the shortest street in the world, you won’t be disappointed by the delicious, locally sourced meals up for grabs in No 1 Bistro.

Day 5

Thurso’s Cold War and Viking Connections

Today is all about discovering the tales of Thurso. From hundreds of millions of years ago, to most recent days, you won’t run out of stories to uncover.

First stop is Forss Business Park, which is rich with history and stories. Originally built as a US Navy Listening Site during the Cold War for NATO, the site is bursting with war time stories. The Americans left the site in the 1990s, leaving behind a bowling alley, Olympic-sized pool and even a baseball diamond which the community continued to use into the millennium. While you’re there exploring, it would be rude not to nip into North Point Distillery and try or buy a tipple while you’re there.

Your next stop on the list is North Coast Visitor Centre, set out in the historic Thurso Town Hall. The Visitor Centre tells the story of Caithness from the Devonian geological period (some 416 – 359 million years ago) right up to the present day, and you’re guaranteed a tasty treat from the café too.

After stepping through time in Thurso, make your way to Castletown and stop in at the Castletown Heritage Centre. Learn all about the history of this village, also known as the ‘Flagstone Villlage’. From learning about the village’s ties with the RAF to Viking habitations. The volunteers in the Heritage Centre are ready to welcome you with their wealth of knowledge.

Day 6

Royal Roots at Castle of Mey and John O’Groats

Today you’ll discover some royal roots and the tale of John O Groats. First on the list is the Castle and Gardens of Mey. This castle is bursting with stories, from acting as the seat of the Earls of Caithness to becoming residence to the late Queen Mother during the autumn months between 1952 – 1996, and now regularly visited by HRH King Charles III. Don’t forget to visit the gardens and marvel at the skills of the green fingered team at the castle too.

Next stop is the John O’Groats Mill, where you’re guaranteed to learn a new thing or two about this ancient craft, and have a fantastic time while doing it. This is the last working watermill in Caithness, and the milling site has been in operation for 1000 years. A visit here will unearth how operations have changed over the years, and its role in the local society.

Every good day out deserves to be rounded off with a good beer, and we believe beer always tastes better when it has a story to tell. Head to John O’Groats Brewery and chat to the team, they’ll tell you the story of their premises. The “Last House” is the oldest surviving building in John O’Groats and is known to have housed descendants of Jan de Groot, who the village is named after. Oh, and the beers are mighty fine too.

While you’re there, take the short drive over to Duncansby Head and breath in that sea air fresh off the Pentland Firth, and if you’re lucky enough, you might even spot a puffin or two on the rocks!

Venture North and uncover the tales, history and heritage that this incredible region of the Scottish Highlands was built on. From the tragedy of the Clearances that shaped the communities that remain today, to the geological wonders that lead to the breathtaking landscapes you see around you. You’ll never be far from a story worth learning about.