The wide-open spaces and sparse population of Caithness and Sutherland today belie the regions’ rich and varied past. People have lived and worked here for over 10 000 years, and their influence on our culture and heritage is still deeply felt. You don’t have to search far for evidence of how and where they lived. But even the landscape tells a story, one as old as the planet. Venture North and let us take you right back in time. How does 3000 million years ago sound?
North West Highlands Geopark
The North West Highlands Geopark takes in around 2000 square km of mountain, peatland, beach, forest, and coastline across north west Sutherland and on to the north coast. Start at the visitor centre (and café!) in Unapool, and from there discover trails and marked walks right across the region. They’ll help you uncover the secrets of the oldest rocks in Britain, identify the site of an asteroid impact, and introduce you to fossils of early life. It’s mind-expanding stuff, but with rocks that are 3000 million years old, it’ll be waiting for you whenever you are ready to visit. ‘As old as the hills’ is a phrase that truly resonates here.
Visit the Geopark website and plan your trip
Caithness Brochs
The largest concentration of brochs in Scotland is found in Caithness – brochs are Iron Age forts, enormous structures, of which only remains survive today. One of the best preserved and conserved examples is Ousdale Broch, a few miles north of Helmsdale. The Caithness Broch Project worked to conserve the site. For more details of the area’s Pictish history follow the Highland Pictish Trail, and for context, drop into Timespan in Helmsdale.
Discover more about brochs through Caithness Broch Project
Strathnaver Trail
Stretching from Altnaharra to the Kyle of Tongue, and east to Bettyhill, the 16 sites of the Strathnaver Trail tell the story of this lush valley’s varied and often turbulent past. From ancient burial sites and a chambered cairn at Grumbeg, through Pictish settlements, evidence of early Christian heritage, and cleared townships, there’s an almost overwhelming choice of sites and stories. Choose any of them, and have your imagination ignited.
Explore the Strathnaver Trail and view the trail map
Inchnadamph Bone Caves
No trip to Assynt is complete without a walk to the Inchnadamph Bone Caves. In just two hours you’ll be transported back to a time 45,000 years ago when lynx, reindeer and even polar bears roamed these hills. Human bones from around 4500 years ago have been found here too, although it’s not thought the four caves were used as permanent dwellings. As you catch your breath after the climb, look out on a vista that remains almost unchanged since those times.
Find more about the Inchnadamph Bone Caves
Yarrows Archaeological Trail
Yarrows archaeological trail is a must-see for anyone who is keen to gain a better understanding of the ancient history of the area. The trail takes in ancient Cairns, long Cairns, a broch from around 200BC, and standing stones, with interpretation panels to bring it all to life. There’s more than just archaeology here; the loch-side setting is gorgeous, and nature fans will be in their element too. Base yourself at Thrumster House and come back day after day after day.
Discover the Yarrows Archaeological Trail
Some visitors to the north struggle with our (occasional) bad weather, but heavy rainfall is part of the Highland way of life. Clear, clean water fills our lochs, enriches our land, and swells our rivers – and it makes the finest malt whisky in the world. And as it swells our rivers it creates the most spectacular waterfalls. There are few things more energising than witnessing the power of water as it flows, rushes and roars over rocks. Here are five of our favourites; all require a walk, but the reward is more than worth the effort.
Big Burn
This is a real hidden gem, tucked up off the A9 just north of Golspie and (usually) blissfully free of the crowds that visit the splendour of nearby Dunrobin Castle. An hour away from the car will take you through ancient woods up a secret glen, over-foot bridges, through lush vegetation (the wild garlic is glorious in spring) and to a viewing platform by the tumbling falls. Stop, pause, drink in the drama. The falls are never the same twice.
View the Big Burn Walk location and details
Cassley Falls
In the heart of the Highlands, not far from Lairg, lie Cassley Falls. Park at an off-road clearing opposite the path that leads to their glory or walk in from the woodland cabin at Rosehall Forest. After you’ve marvelled at the falls (there are well-placed benches to encourage you to linger) explore the wee graveyard. Then wander further downstream to the remains of a Pictish Broch. People have lived here for millennia, fished this river, and gained sustenance from its waters.
Check out the Rosehall area guide for more information on Cassley Falls
Falls of Shin
Not far from Crassley are the wondrous Falls of Shin. Watch Atlantic salmon leap majestically upstream towards their spawning grounds, amid mixed forests of aspen, larch and fir. Easily accessible from the large car park, there are more paths to explore in the area, which is managed by Forestry and Land Scotland. With Lairg as your base this is one of the first stops on your tour of central Sutherland.
Discover the Falls of Shin and woodland walks on WalkHighlands
Kirkaig Falls
Assynt isn’t just famous for its mountains and beaches, there are rivers and waterfalls too. This walk takes you part way along one of the access paths to one of the area’s most famous hills, Suilven, from the hamlet of Inverkirkaig. The walk passes through mixed forest – it’s a place to spot the occasional adder on a warm summer’s day, but only if you’re quiet. The falls are spectacular, but take care on the steep path down to the gorge.
Check out the Lochinver area guide for more information on Kirkaig Falls
Eas a’ Chual Aluinn
It’s a challenging and relatively exposed trek to the top of Britain’s highest waterfall, which is over three times the height of Niagara Falls when in full flow. Extreme care is needed as you approach the top of the falls. The less surefooted may prefer to take the boat trip to from the slipway near the Kylesku Hotel, to view the falls from Loch Beag. Either way, it’s a truly memorable trip, even if it’s not possible to see the entire 200m of the drop from any one vantage point. Stay awhile at Kylesku, the Hotel is a destination in itself.
One of the most important elements in understanding history and heritage is context, and when you venture north to Caithness and Sutherland you’ll find a plethora of museums, from large to tiny, which help put what you see and experience into a real frame of reference. As you explore, you’ll come across them in almost every town and village. Here are a five to start with…
Wick Heritage Society
Award-winning and widely acclaimed, Wick Heritage Centre tells – in the most imaginative way – the fascinating and varied story of the town. It houses a Kipper kiln, a cooperage, a recreated harbour scene, and a restored fisherman’s house. There’s also an art gallery, and the famous Johnston collection of historical photographs. And if all that wasn’t enough, there’s even a working lighthouse. Take a lunch break at Mackays Hotel, then come back for more in the afternoon. There’s far too much to see in a single session!
Check out Wick Heritage Centre and plan your trip
Castlehill Heritage Centre
This fascinating museum is nestled into farm buildings which sit adjacent to the cutting yard and quarry of Caithness flagstone workings. Wander round the Heritage Trail to understand the story of flagstone and see the beautiful old harbour that took the stone to foreign shores. Once you’ve tired of that, and the nearby Sculpture Trail, pop inside to dive into the history and heritage of Castletown, Olrig, and the people who made the area their home.
Find out more about Castletown Heritage Society on their site
Strathnaver Museum
Strathnaver in northern Sutherland is Mackay country, and it’s to the museum, that Mackays from all over the world come to trace their family history. But there’s so much more than that at this gem or a museum. There’s a popular croft house, complete with box bed, plus artefacts which tell the story of the crofters’ way of life, including peat cutting tools and farm implements.
View Strathnaver Museum and learn about their events and projects
North Coast Visitor Centre
Housed in a beautifully repurposed historic building, the North Coast Visitor Centre offers a captivating journey through Caithness's rich past. Explore exhibits spanning millions of years, from Pictish artefacts to the impact of Dounreay. This museum also boasts an art gallery, gift shop and a cafe, making it a one-stop shop for culture and local insight in Thurso.
See opening times and information for North Coast Visitor Centre
Historylinks in Dornoch
Anything you’d like to know about Dornoch, from its earliest settlers in 5000BC, through to the changes in the town brought about by improved 20th century transport links, its role in the wars, and the impact of the arrival of tourists and golf, can be found in Historylinks. It’s a treasure-trove of artefacts and interpretation, and not to be missed during your visit to the town.
Explore Dornoch history through Historylinks Museum
The Highland Clearances were a turbulent and terrible time in our history. In two main phases, mostly from 1850 and 1860, crofters were cleared from their land and the old clan system was broken up. Many cleared Highlanders were forced to turn to fishing to make ends meet, something they had neither the boats nor the sea-skills to succeed in. Venture North to immerse yourself in the history of the clearances. Here are five of the best places to start.
Badbea Clearance Village
A half hour walk from the A9 takes you to the windswept ruins of Badbea Clearance Village. Atop precipitous cliffs and with the sound of waves crashing onto the rocks below, it’s easy to imagine how hard life must have been here for the families who were cleared from neighbouring straths. In good weather the views are spectacular, but there are tales of women having to tether cows, chickens and even children to prevent them from being blown away by the winds. Unimaginable.
See the location and nearest parking for Badbea Clearance Village
Ceannabeinne and the Durness Riots
A marked heritage trail just off the A838 east of Durness tells the story of the brave souls of Ceannabeinne who resisted the efforts of the landowner’s factor to be removed from their homes, and so brought the plight of Highland crofters to national attention, and led to the passing of the Crofters Act od 1886. After exploring the ruins, drop down to skip along the waves of a stunning white-sand beach.
Read about the route and see the map on WalkHighlands
Ben Bhraggie
The village of Golspie is dominated by Ben Bhraggie, which in turn is dominated by an enormous – and controversial – statue of the George Leveson-Gower. He was the first Duke of Sutherland, notorious for the part he played in the first clearances. Watch out for mountain bikers as you puff your way to the summit. And ponder whether the statue should remain to remind us of the history of the region or be replaced – as some call for – by a tribute to those who were forced from their homes by the Duke’s ruthlessness.
Find out more about Ben Bhraggie see the location
Croick Church
The Thomas Telfer designed Croick Church, ten miles up the lonely Strathcarron, is worth a visit for its architecture and location alone. But when you see the messages inscribed into the windows by some of the 80 families forced to seek sanctuary in the church yard in 1845, it brings the history of the region to life. We don’t know the fate of those families; we just know their traditional way of life was less profitable to absentee landlords than their land being grazed by sheep.
View Croick Church on the map and see how to get there
Helmsdale
The history of the Clearances is told at the village’s Timespan Museum and their fate is poignantly captured by the Emigrants Memorial, which shows fleeing crofters gazing back at their homeland. Take time to explore the museum’s artefacts. There’s a café there – the terrace overlooking the river is a perfect summer spot for coffee, fresh scones, and lunch.
See our area guide for Helmsdale and discover things to do
The landscape and character of Caithness and Sutherland is as varied as the people who live here. You’re likely to want to take some souvenirs home to remind you of your time here. But what about making some yourself – or indeed working on yourself. Venture North to get creative. Try these options for size…
Lyth Arts Centre
Known for its eclectic performances in theatre, dance, music and comedy, both in the centre itself and in surrounding village halls, Lyth Arts is a wonderful place in which to enliven your senses. But don’t imagine yourself merely as a passive consumer of art; the centre runs regular workshops allowing you to let your own creativity shine.
View event calendar and programme for Lyth Arts Centre
Lindsey Gallacher Jewellery workshop
As well as making stunning silver jewellery, Lindsey Gallagher runs workshops which will take you from a total novice to wearing your own creation home, all in the space of a single day. Learn how to design, create, solder, and finish your own unique piece of wearable art. Be warned though, it’s addictive…
Explore jewellery and workshops with Lindsey Gallacher
CC Chocolatier
Who doesn’t love chocolate? And who wouldn’t want to learn how to make chocolates for themselves? The answer is at CC Chocolatier on a croft at Bower near Wick. Join Mandy on a chocolate-making course, when relax with her Ritz-style afternoon-tea. The chocolates will only last five minutes after you are home, but the memories will last a lifetime.
Discover the world of chocolate with CC Chocolatier
Gin Masterclass with Ice and Fire
The crofters and distillers behind Ice and Fire Distillery, just outside Latheronwheel, will not only sell you their small-batch, artisanal, gin, vodka, and rum, they’ll also share its secrets with you. Join a Gin Masterclass, learn about the distilling process, and use your own blend of locally foraged botanicals to distil your own unique bottle of Crofter’s Gin. Perfect for the gin lover in your life.
Plan your Crofters Retreat with Ice & Fire Distillery
Oldshoremore Retreats, Kinlochbervie
Sometimes the greatest creativity happens when we work on ourselves. Oldshoremore Retreats offer space, time, and support in which to rest, recharge and reconnect with what makes you unique. There are yoga and meditation sessions, sound baths, and nourishing walks on the nearby sandy beach. Take a swim in icy waters, if you dare…
Discover the magic of Oldshoremore Retreats
Sometimes, as we explore, we stumble upon great places to eat, and other times the great place to eat is the reason for the journey. Here are five delicious destinations that are worthy of being the sole purpose of your trip. What better excuse do you need to travel, than to dine?
Kylesku Hotel
The Kylesku Hotel is an amazing place to stay, but it’s a real destination lunch spot on the road between Ullapool and the north coast. And what a lunch! In fact, they’re open to non-residents for breakfast, coffee and cake and dinner too, and are dog-friendly till 7pm. Booking is recommended for fresh and seasonal seafood, venison, home-grown veggies and vegan options too.
Check out Kylesku Hotel
The Pier, Lairg
Award-winning, friendly and unassuming, this gem of a café on the shores of Loch Shin serves up a heart-warming menu of tasty treats, plus breakfasts, full-blown lunches, and loaded hot chocolates to die for. Open for dinner on Friday and Saturday nights too – booking is recommended. Carefully prepared local ingredients (fresh trout from the loch, anyone?) are served up with amazing views over the water, and there’s a cocktail, beer, and wine list for non-drivers. Bliss.
Visit The Pier, Lairg
The Crask Inn
The remote and historic Crask Inn has been a place of pilgrimage and refuge since 1815, and that tradition exists through today, with a warm welcome extended to both residents and passers-by. The most isolated Inn on the British mainland will serve up hearty soups and toasties to walkers, bikers, and cyclists, with a dinner menu (booking recommended) to warm the soul.
Stop in at The Crask Inn
The Rock Stop
The Rock Stop in Unapool is the aptly named café, shop and visitor centre of the North West Highland Geopark, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Soup and sandwiches, coffee and cake, to sit in (or enjoy on the terrace) or to take away and enjoy as you explore the area by bike or on foot. The Geopark takes in around 2000 square km of mountain, peatland, beach, forest and coastline across west Sutherland and on to the north coast, all just waiting to reveal its secrets.
Explore The Rock Stop near Kylesku
Capilla Tapas, Scrabster
Beloved by locals and visitors, Capilla Tapas is a delicious slice of Spain on the north coast of the Highlands. Housed in the old chapel (hence the name) it’s a haven for lovers of chilli and garlic prawns, calamari, paellas, and their famous patatas bravas. Book, or you might be disappointed, and don’t forget to leave room for their daily deserts. Gluten free options and takeaways too!
Discover Capilla Tapas, Scrabster