Cycling in the Far North

Cycling is exactly the right pace at which to immerse yourself in everything we have to offer. As long as there’s no-one right behind you, you can stop – literally anywhere – to examine a tiny flower, to help a frog cross the road, to watch a herd of deer disappearing over the crest of the hill, or photograph that stunning cloud formation/rainbow/pod of orca before they disappear.

Quicker than walking, thus allowing you to cover more miles (essential for both the delightfully curious and the terminally impatient), a few hours or days in the saddle will leave you with something no car journey can ever match; a sense of achievement. You have got yourself here under your own steam (and no, we’re not sniffy about electric bikes – they still require effort). You have earned the joys and delights that await you at your destination, be they food, comfort, company, a slice of cake and a cup of tea, or all of that.

So, Venture North to discover our cycle paths less travelled. We can’t promise flat gradients or tailwinds all the way, but we can promise tremendous views and a sense of adventure… and a warm welcome when you reach your destination.

Central Sutherland Circuit (Half-day - 24 miles)

This half-day route, including time to explore on foot, starts and ends in Lairg on the southern-most tip of Loch Shin and takes in two of the region’s loveliest waterfalls via quiet country roads. If you’re on sturdier tyres, the forest trails at Rosehall would make a great alternative to the road for the short stretch to Invercassley.

From the centre of Lairg cross the bridge and follow the A839 for around 8 miles as it winds up through woodland and moorland to the junction of the A937. Turn right at the war memorial then right again to enter Rosehall Forest – the log cabin is always worth exploring. Mountain bikers can follow signed forest tracks to Achness Falls (Cassley Falls) – if your tyres are less robust, continue on the road towards Invercassley. Leave your bike by the road as you walk to the waterfall – allow time to explore the graveyard and broch further downstream too.

Back on your bike, retrace your tracks to the war memorial and this time continue on the A837, following the road as it drops downhill past the abandoned Rosehall House – a stunning ruined mansion once owned by Coco Chanel – to the Kyle of Sutherland. Here the views open out as you glide downstream. Carbisdale Castle comes into sight. You’ll likely be joined on this stretch by a highly territorial buzzard – he keeps an eye on you as you watch him soar.

At Inveran (approx. 17 miles) you’ll reach the bridge over the river Shin. Stop to watch the water tumble underneath, then retrace your steps slightly to cycle upstream alongside the River Shin on the B864. This is another beautiful stretch of road – climbing gently as it winds among the trees to reach the Falls of Shin. You’ll want to explore the paths here (18.8 miles) and watch for leaping salmon in spring.

From here, continue north along the winding road to re-join the A839. (Look out for a beautiful garden on your left – they’ve recreated old Highland lazy-beds.) At the junction, turn right, back towards Lairg, then left after crossing the bridge. Look out for The Wee Hoose in the centre of Loch Shin, but carry on – your ultimate destination is The Pier, an award-winning café/restaurant where you can restock the spent calories of the last 24 miles.

Family Friendly Forest Fun

The Community owned Dunnet Forest is the most northerly community woodland in the UK and, although small, it has lots to explore. This is an excellent traffic-free place for cyclists. Wee toots who are just growing in confidence will enjoy the accessibility of the all-terrain paths, and big toots too!

There are routes for horses and walkers, and a sculpture trail, all among a mixed terrain of established pines, spruce and native trees, new planting, and open ground.

Take a flask and your binoculars to the bird hide, explore the hut circle, and seek refuge from showers in the log cabin.

Nearby, enjoy the pristine sands of Dunnet Bay (just across the road) and then get stuck into the amazing displays at the Seadrift Visitor Centre. Housed upstairs in the building at the caravan park, this is an oasis of unexpected treasures, sure to fire young imaginations.

If you can peel yourself away from the view, make sure to check out the pilot and killer whale skulls. How does yours measure up?

Remote route to Cape Wrath (Full day - 28 miles + ferry crossing)

It’s not easy to access Cape Wrath, which makes the success of reaching the lighthouse at the most north-westerly corner of the UK all the sweeter. You’ll need a mountain bike, sea-legs, and a good-weather day – the smallest public ferry in the country can’t sail in foul weather, when tides are unfavourable, or when the MOD are using the land for military operations. Oh, and you’ll need your camera. The scenery and wildlife are spectacular.

Base yourself in Durness, and if the Cape Wrath Ferry is sailing (check their Facebook page), cycle the 2 miles to the wee pier at Keodale on the Kyle of Durness. The ferry runs daily between May and September, and carries bikes too, for a fee. (They’re also starting to offer mountain bike hire)

Once on the other side, the 11-mile track to the Stevenson-built lighthouse (1828) hasn’t seen a pot-hole filler since the 1950s, so you’ll need a sturdy set of wheels. On the positive side, there’s not much traffic; the cape is largely uninhabited, and the only vehicle is the minibus that runs visitors to and from the lighthouse. You’re also unlikely to have trouble route-finding; there’s just one road.

Enjoy the solitude – your only companions for the ride might be sheep and sea eagles, along with a few fellow cyclists and walkers. You’ll pass a few rental cottages on your way, and a school which, in the 1930s, taught ten pupils. The sea cliffs of Clo Mor have the highest sheer drop of any in the UK – it’s 281m down to the wild seas of the north Atlantic; that’s over 900 feet.

When you are ready, head back for the ferry. The views are different this direction, and you’re more likely to get a tail wind. All the sweeter after your exertions.

Mountain Biking

Check out more on mountain biking in the North Highlands here.

Bike Hire, Tours and Repairs

If you don’t have your own set of wheels, or have left them at home, never fear. The number of places offering bike and e-bike hire across Caithness and Sutherland is growing – check out these few and keep coming back as we add more.

• Heaven Bikes

Based in Bonar Bridge, Heaven Bikes offer bike sales, and mountain bike hire. They will deliver to the Dornoch, Tain, and central Sutherland areas.

• Dornoch Bike Hire

Dornoch Bike Hire do exactly what they say on the tin, with the hire of mountain and hybrid bikes for all the family, ideal for exploring all the trails around Dornoch, Embo, and further afield on two wheels. They also deliver locally - contact them for details.

• 42Cycling

Why worry about which route you’re going to take and how to get the most out of your cycling experience in the Highlands when you can have someone else take care of it for you! 42Cycling run fantastic cycle tours right across the Highlands and they have plenty of options depending on your ability and interests.

• Assynt Leisure Centre

Based on the pier in Lochinver, Assynt Leisure Centre offer e-bike hire – the ‘e’ is very welcome, as the roads around Lochinver can be ‘undulating’, to say the least! Can there be a better way to visit Inverkircaig, though, or Achmelvich? We don’t think so. Just make sure you’ve got enough ‘juice’ left for the return journey!

• Wick Bicycle Repairs and Servicing

Based up in Wick, Caithness, Wick Bicycle Repairs and Servicing offers repairs and servicing for bikes by their qualified bike mechanic.