For just 14 weeks each spring/summer, Kittiwakes, Fulmars, Guillemots, Razorbills, Puffins and Shags fill every available ledge, nook and cranny of these cliffs with the sole aim of raising a family. The cacophony of sound they produce is almost deafening! The sights are unforgettable. As is the stench of guano. If you haven’t experienced it, then you haven’t lived! You’ll either love it or you’ll hate it, as with Marmite. I love them both…
In addition to the breeding birds, there’ll be frequent visits by predators seeking to take an egg, or a chick, or even an adult bird, for dinner. The main predators are Sea Eagle, Great Skua (‘Bonxie’), Great Black-backed Gull and Raven, although Herring Gulls are a formidable foe too.
The fledging of young Guillemots and Razorbills in July is spectacular. One-third grown, they’re encouraged by their parents to leap from the ledge and -- despite frantic flapping of stubby wings -- they plunge down to the sea. One parent will descend with each chick. If all goes well, dad will accompany it away from the hectic sea cliff and out into the open water, where it will eventually mature and become independent. Mum, meanwhile, will defend the nest site for a few days from inquisitive sub-adult birds looking for a site of their own. Once found, they’ll try to keep ownership of it for 20 years!
By late July, most are done… an eerie silence befalls all areas of Britain’s wild rocky coastline, as these seabirds go to where they’re in their element -- in the open ocean. Believe it or not the adult birds are generally safer out there too, even in winter storms.
The route across the heath and bog (with beautiful plants!) should bring views of Red Grouse, Skylark, Meadow Pipit, and Red Deer. Spectacular Orkney appears as we near the cliffs.
There are some wet areas to traverse, so walking boots and gaiters - or even Wellington boots - are recommended. The route has some undulating terrain and some tussocky vegetation too, but is only moderately difficult. Walking poles will require a broad base, not a spike! Three to four miles in total, depending upon the route taken. Worth every footstep.
Meeting point (and car parking): contact me on the day, but it will be in the vicinity of Melvich. Booking is essential: 07864 322776, please phone or message me.
I’ll be prepared to lead this walk on every Thursday in May, June and July. I lived for 10 summers amongst seabirds on an offshore island. Hear about some of my many amazing experiences.